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/usr/share/xemacs-21.4.22/etc/gtkrc is in xemacs21-support 21.4.22-4ubuntu3.

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The actual contents of the file can be viewed below.

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# Force the window background to be the same as the default face background:
# white.

style "default_background"
{
	bg[NORMAL] = { 1.0, 1.0, 1.0 }
}

class "GtkXEmacs" style "default_background"