/usr/share/themes/CleanIce/gtk-2.0/gtkrc is in gtk2-engines-cleanice 2.4.1-3.
This file is owned by root:root, with mode 0o644.
The actual contents of the file can be viewed below.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 | # Edit these colors and fonts however you like, after cp'ing the file to
# another theme directory.
style "cleanice" {
engine "cleanice" {}
}
widget_class "*" style "cleanice"
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